The Gender Politics of Footwear: High Heels and Sandals Through Time
It was one of those warm summer afternoons when Nora sat on her balcony, flipping through a dusty old book of fashion history. She had always found the evolution of clothing and accessories fascinating, especially when it came to the curious and often unexpected roles that shoes had played throughout history. Today, she was intrigued by a particular chapter, one that dealt with the surprising history of high heels and sandals—two footwear staples that, in modern times, had very different associations with gender.
Nora had always loved wearing sandals in the summer. The simplicity, the comfort, the freedom they offered her feet—it was a style she often embraced. Yet, in the back of her mind, a nagging question lingered: Why were sandals once considered “women’s shoes”? And why did high heels, now often thought of as a symbol of femininity, originally have a very different history?
Her thoughts drifted back to the time she had visited the museum in the city, where she’d come across an exhibit that displayed historical footwear. Among the many shoes, there was a pair of high heels from the 17th century. They were intricate, finely crafted, and elegant—but to Nora’s surprise, they were designed for men. It was an eye-opening moment that left her pondering the shifting politics of gender and fashion.
The origins of high heels, she read, dated back to the 10th century in Persia, where both men and women wore them. The elevated heel was originally a practical feature, used by Persian horse riders to secure their feet in stirrups. But it wasn’t long before the heel became a symbol of status and power. When these styles were introduced to Europe in the 16th century, high heels were not just a part of women’s wardrobes. Kings, nobles, and aristocrats wore them proudly, especially as they helped to display their wealth and authority. The higher the heel, the more power the wearer could signal. Men, particularly those in positions of authority, adopted the high heel to emphasize their status and dominance.
As Nora thought about this, she couldn’t help but smile. The thought of men strutting about in high heels seemed almost absurd by today’s standards. Yet back then, it was a statement of power. High heels were considered masculine in a way, adding to the stature of the wearer. But over time, their association with masculinity began to fade. Fashion, as always, shifted. By the late 18th and early 19th centuries, heels began to become synonymous with femininity. Women, now increasingly confined to domestic spaces, embraced the high heel as a symbol of grace and refinement, something to set them apart from the more rugged masculinity of the everyday man.
As Nora read on, she learned that the shift was not only a matter of aesthetics but also of gender norms and class. Women’s roles were being increasingly tied to appearance and beauty, while men’s roles were more about function and power. High heels, once a symbol of authority, became part of the expectation for women to uphold ideals of femininity and delicacy. It was fascinating how gender and power had been intertwined with something as simple as a shoe.
But then Nora’s attention turned to another part of the book that discussed sandals. Sandals, unlike high heels, had a much different journey through the centuries. In ancient civilizations, sandals were primarily worn by both men and women across different cultures. Egyptians, Romans, and Greeks wore sandals for practical purposes—protection from the hot desert sands, or ease of movement on their daily tasks. Sandals were simple, easy to wear, and suited for long hours of labor or travel.
However, during certain periods in history, particularly during the medieval and Victorian eras, the sandal became something more closely associated with women, especially in Western cultures. By the time of the Renaissance and beyond, women’s footwear was becoming more specialized, with delicate, ornate shoes like the French-heeled shoes becoming symbols of wealth. But unlike the high heel, the sandal was seen as practical, and practicality was largely attributed to femininity during certain periods—especially in the context of the domestic sphere. It wasn’t about status anymore; it was about ease and comfort, which was, at the time, seen as fitting for the female role.
As Nora pondered this, she realized how much gender roles had shaped the perceptions of both sandals and high heels. While men were once the first to embrace the elegance of high heels, it was women who were expected to wear them to meet the growing standards of beauty, softness, and refinement. Meanwhile, sandals, which were once gender-neutral and functional, became synonymous with femininity—linked to the notion of practicality and modesty.
It wasn’t until the 20th century that both sandals and high heels began to be seen more fluidly, with less focus on rigid gender norms. The feminist movements, the rise of more diverse fashion icons, and the slow shift towards gender equality made it possible for both men and women to freely choose their footwear based on personal preference rather than societal expectation. Men, once again, began embracing sandals, as did women, reclaiming their comfort and versatility.
Nora thought about how different it all felt now. In her own wardrobe, high heels and sandals were simply shoes—items to complement an outfit, reflect her mood, or suit the occasion. They no longer carried the weight of centuries of gender politics. High heels were no longer just for women who sought beauty, and sandals were no longer just practical choices for men and women of the past.
In fact, as Nora glanced down at her own feet, she was wearing a pair of simple sandals, comfortable and perfect for her afternoon stroll. There was no question of masculinity or femininity in them—just comfort and ease. The history of footwear, once so deeply entwined with gender roles and expectations, had evolved. Today, footwear was simply about personal expression.
The air was beginning to cool as Nora stepped off her balcony, heading out for the evening. She reflected on the complexities of fashion history—the fluidity of gender, power, and clothing. Shoes, it seemed, had always been about more than just function. They were symbols of something deeper—of identity, of history, and of the changing tides of society. Whether it was the regal high heel or the humble sandal, footwear had always told a story. Today, Nora was proud to walk in shoes that told hers.
The evolution of sandals and high heels tells a fascinating story about the intersection of gender, power, and fashion. From being symbols of masculinity to signs of femininity, the transformation of these shoes reflects shifting cultural and social norms. Today, as gender roles become more fluid and personal expression takes center stage, these once highly politicized shoes are simply part of the wardrobe—free from the constraints of the past.